A question for the Z1 Gurus

[GarnZ1]

Arap, regret, to say ......, it's a crank-case split. That bearing has a semi-circular keeper which locks it in place. Nevertheless, your inquisitive mind, may have prevented a breakdown far from home. I have never heard of a roller bearing seizing up like that.

[arap183]

Hi Garnz, thats my problem I'm never happy taking things at face value. I need to know the reasons why? or how does that work? Its lucky that I decided to change chain size, if I gone with the old size I wouldn't have needed to change the front sprocket as its still in good nik. As it was the chain was just starting to ware on the crank case! The end result of that continuing is scary.
The bearing does have a set ring grove, but I can't find any evidence that they use a set ring and that the crank case has a matching grove. Has any one here actually split a crank case and worked on the output shaft?
As to the cause of the bearing deteriorating, I rode this bike to work every day for ten years. Short trips in cold, wet weather don't get the engine hot enough to drive all the moisture out and some has probably settled in that bearing and then it was unused for years when I moved to the big smoke.
There are probably lots of bikes out there with a similar history. Either way it has to be changed, its just that I'd rather be riding it than pulling it to bits.

Cheers

[GarnZ1]

Arap, It's a Z1R, it will have the same configuration as the Z1 series. I'm reasonably sure it will have the matching groove for the "set ring".

I have split many crank-cases and if you don't want to touch the head you can leave it on. I notice Z power UK sell the bearing set for $150 Aust. Don't know where you would get an individual bearing with this groove anywhere else.

The output shaft is easily retrieved and worked on as well as the main clutch drive and the kick-start shaft. One word of warning, the old 6 mm bolts do break off, adding hours to the job. Ensure you have them all out before jacking the halves apart.
RegardZ.

[900FOUR]

arap further to Garnz advice, I'm sure your depressed at finding this prob. It's not a job for the faint hearted, but also not the end of the world.

Motor has to come out as one unit, tipped upside down and bottom case removed to gain access to output shaft etc..

Parts required are

92045-021 Bearing- fits all 900/1000's

92027-288 Collar (sprocket spacer)- fits all 400/650/750/900/1000's

92055-035 O Ring- fits hundreds diff model Kwakka's

Gaskets as required. Above geniune parts, ring your Kwakka dealer see if avai.

None genuine replacement bearing is NSK BL305. Make sure it's BL305 only as this is open bearing with snapping ring groove.

BL305 NR/Z/ZNR or ZZ's have sheilds or seals or both, no suitable for this application.

S.A. Surplus Bearings in Strathalbyn or Mt Barker (my old water hole) have these plus other bearing suppliers.

Bearing does have a keeper built into cases to retain it.

What has caused this? Very likely over tightened chain. Every time suspension is compressed, chain tightens, bearing area cops it big time. Very unlikely water entry has caused this as described but will need careful inspection upon strip down.

Other aspect to consider as this also requires same surgery as above is dreaded clutch rattle. If your motor is operation, make sure super quite (maybe seek second or third opionion) repair can be done at same time. I've got a ZIB with dreaded clutch rattle, but living with it at moment.

[arap183]

Thanks for the advice fellas, I know its a job that has to be done and I'm sort of looking forward to it. Its just that I,m not really set up workshop wise. Ill just have find a spot and keep it under control.
The reason I go for the moisture / water theory is that I've often seen the oil sight window fogged up and milky. Also if you look at the photo of the bearing, that slight mark at about 1.30 is the remains of rust that I wiped away. The noisy clutch I'm not sure about, as long as I can remember it has been noisy in neutral and when you pull the clutch lever in the noise stops. Is that what you mean? I always thought it was normal along with the big clunk going from neutral to first.
Will keep you posted in the interest of spreading knowledge and having a chat.
Cheers...

[sidyoung]

Thanks for the advice fellas, I know its a job that has to be done and I'm sort of looking forward to it. Its just that I,m not really set up workshop wise. Ill just have find a spot and keep it under control.
The reason I go for the moisture / water theory is that I've often seen the oil sight window fogged up and milky. Also if you look at the photo of the bearing, that slight mark at about 1.30 is the remains of rust that I wiped away. The noisy clutch I'm not sure about, as long as I can remember it has been noisy in neutral and when you pull the clutch lever in the noise stops. Is that what you mean? I always thought it was normal along with the big clunk going from neutral to first.
Will keep you posted in the interest of spreading knowledge and having a chat.
Cheers...

Keep up the good work.. engine split is easy if you are only doing the bottom case. I have photos on my web site of my z900-A4 engine split if you get stuck.

[arap183]

Well I've finally replaced that output shaft bearing. It took all of two minutes to replace once I had the crank case open. It was getting the engine out and replacing the two sheared off crank case bolts that took all the time and had me swearing. Who invented locktite anyway.
Now that I've got the engine out and in a rotating stand I might as well check a few things and replace the odd leaking seal. My problem is how hard should it be to turn the engine over by hand? It seems hard, is it just the cams compressing the valve springs, the plugs are out. Its not ceased in the normal sense of the word, it was running fine.
Its been rotated in the stand a few times with the cam chain tensioner lock bolt out. Has something fallen out of wack, I cant see any thing wrong.
It feels like its going up to compression but the plugs are out. Am i just being to gentle?
Cheers all, stay well.

[Popeye]

Imagine how I felt when I pulled my Z1A engine apart and found I had a cracked crankshaft. Lucky I have 2 spares. I can only imagine the damage that had let go. Probably pieces of Kawasaki all over the place with me not to far behind. Sometimes the motorcycle gods create these problems to tease us and make us get to know our machinery more intimately.

Cheers and Beers.

Bob

[graham979]

Hi. if you are turning motor over with a large spanner or shifter on the end of the crank then it should turn over easily.If it is not there may be something wrong(dont force it).check valve timing is correct.Install camshain tensioner and try again.cheers graham

[markstark]

Thanks for the advice fellas, I know its a job that has to be done and I'm sort of looking forward to it. Its just that I,m not really set up workshop wise. Ill just have find a spot and keep it under control.
The reason I go for the moisture / water theory is that I've often seen the oil sight window fogged up and milky. Also if you look at the photo of the bearing, that slight mark at about 1.30 is the remains of rust that I wiped away. The noisy clutch I'm not sure about, as long as I can remember it has been noisy in neutral and when you pull the clutch lever in the noise stops. Is that what you mean? I always thought it was normal along with the big clunk going from neutral to first.
Will keep you posted in the interest of spreading knowledge and having a chat.
Cheers...

If you dont have a shed I gave a mate a hand to rebuild his z1 25 years ago in a tent ,with a tarp to reinforce it , tape player and a bottle stones no wurries.