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View Full Version : engine noise. vn 800



muzza
13-03-09, 09:00 PM
gday people. my vn 800 is making a noise. if it was a car i would say it was a tappet noise. any advice is is gratefully accepted. cheers muzza.vn

easyrider
14-03-09, 01:58 AM
maybe valve guides,bit hard to say without hearing it!

bens369
14-03-09, 05:14 AM
dirty fuel maybe???

PK-2000
14-03-09, 01:55 PM
oil may need changing, too thin

muzza
14-03-09, 03:04 PM
i read somewhere before about oil pickup. if oils to thick it makes the tapping noise. they reckon thinner oil is the go. im running motul 10/50. and yes its due for a oil change in a couple hundred kilowobbles.

finallyridingagain
14-03-09, 03:23 PM
on my meanie I was told the oil was too thin. I was using motul as well, when they changed the oil it was burnt. (apperently the meanies engine is more like a car then a bike!)

the only noise that annoys me now is that damn clicking noise (air solenoid apparently)

Wheres the noise coming from? do the 800s have the same setup as the meanies?

muzza
14-03-09, 06:41 PM
noise sounds like its coming from the bottom of the motor at the left hand front. not sure if the setup is the same as a meanie. i reckon there would'nt be to much difference. what oil you using now.

Oily
15-03-09, 10:37 AM
I too had the same problem until I changed the oil to the recomended 10w-40w. The Kawasaki shop I go to recomended 20w-50w Silkolene which is what I put in originally and the bike ran like sh*t. Checked the manual and went and bought some Silkolene 10w-40w Comp 4 and this oil has fixed the noise problem.(20-50w oil was too thin)
Dont forget to change your oil filter every second oil change they are only $16.

muzza
15-03-09, 09:52 PM
cheers oily i'll try it out and see how it go's

squizz1500
16-03-09, 12:14 PM
I have put mobile 1 15w-50 full synthetic in my 98 vulcan 1500 and ever since the motor has made a ticking noise just like tappet noise in a car.Am thinking of trying that motul V twin oil

muzza
16-03-09, 10:29 PM
the noise sounds louder when the bikes hot.

easyrider
17-03-09, 01:15 AM
oil may need changing, too thin

always start with the easy stuff first i guess

i have run a few different oils in the old girl the two better ones were the shell & mobil.The shell was ok but i recon it made the gear changes a bit clunky{i only put it in to get me home,oil change was due on a big ride & thats all i could get}The mobil extra 4t is what i use now & it holds up well i think,kwakas have a reputation for clunky gears & this helped with mine.It just took the harshness out of the gear changes & quietend down the motor a bit i recon.Im no expert but its just what i have found to be the best oil

MorganGT
17-03-09, 03:07 PM
Checked the manual and went and bought some Silkolene 10w-40w Comp 4 and this oil has fixed the noise problem.(20-50w oil was too thin)
You've got that round the wrong way - the higher the number, the higher the viscosity, so a 20-50W oil is thicker than a 10-40W oil.

Oily
17-03-09, 05:33 PM
You've got that round the wrong way - the higher the number, the higher the viscosity, so a 20-50W oil is thicker than a 10-40W oil.

Hi Morgan, Thanks for picking up my typo..yes you are right it is thicker the higher the viscosity. Must of really enjoyed that beer I was having when I wrote the post...:laugh:

muzza
17-03-09, 08:27 PM
always start with the easy stuff first i guess

i have run a few different oils in the old girl the two better ones were the shell & mobil.The shell was ok but i recon it made the gear changes a bit clunky{i only put it in to get me home,oil change was due on a big ride & thats all i could get}The mobil extra 4t is what i use now & it holds up well i think,kwakas have a reputation for clunky gears & this helped with mine.It just took the harshness out of the gear changes & quietend down the motor a bit i recon.Im no expert but its just what i have found to be the best oil

i read somewhere about clunky gears on the vn's. they reckon chain tension has a lot to do with it. i had same problem. tightend chain a little and hey presto. it was better. not that it will help you with a shaft mate:top:

muzza
17-03-09, 08:32 PM
Hi Morgan, Thanks for picking up my typo..yes you are right it is thicker the higher the viscosity. Must of really enjoyed that beer I was having when I wrote the post...:laugh:

ok so which oil did you use:noidea:

finallyridingagain
17-03-09, 09:14 PM
noise sounds like its coming from the bottom of the motor at the left hand front. not sure if the setup is the same as a meanie. i reckon there would'nt be to much difference. what oil you using now.

sorry it took so long to get back to you - dynoverks recommended 20w50. they get their oil in bulk and its cheaper then kawasaki motul so I'm not complaining! oleon I think is the brand name, but its got dynoverks label on it, so I dont think you can go to any store to get it.

easyrider
18-03-09, 01:23 AM
muzz i have never been a big fan of going against the manufacturer`s recomendation,if it says 10w-40w in the manual then stick to it,they are the ones that build the bikes & they put a $hit load of r&d into finding out what works & what doesnt,mechanics are like economists put 5 of them in a room & you will get 6 opinions!!!

Oily
18-03-09, 06:30 PM
ok so which oil did you use:noidea:

Silkolene Comp 4 10w-40 available from Supercheap Auto Cannington near JB HIFI for $56 4 litre. Also SuperCheap Auto Canning Vale.

Dont go to the bike shops they are too expensive.

Let me know how you go...

finallyridingagain
21-03-09, 09:17 AM
muzz i have never been a big fan of going against the manufacturer`s recomendation,if it says 10w-40w in the manual then stick to it,they are the ones that build the bikes & they put a $hit load of r&d into finding out what works & what doesnt,mechanics are like economists put 5 of them in a room & you will get 6 opinions!!!



I'd have to agree with you regarding manufactures recomendation and the opinions but how many of our bikes are stock? I took my bike to kawasaki - they didnt like the pistons (not stock), took it to another dealer - they didnt like the pc3 (they reckon you dont need em!)
cant win either way.....
In one of my bike manuals they were going on about the oil specs due to snow. so I figured - best go with whatever environment Im actually riding in (not japans up on mt fuji!) - might be because it was yamaha bike??? :)

just wondering if they actually r&d for australia or just do a couple of mods to meet our standards in order to sell them here?

easyrider
21-03-09, 09:56 AM
i think you will find they do more than you think "finnaly"
we do for the most part get bikes that were ment for other markets,things like the enviromental aplication of the model in a specific market is looked at & evaluated & tested for our market too! for both cars & bike,i onced got pics of a new model subaru wrx sti that i spotted up in the middle of the buckland valley{which is all dirt roads & in the middle of nowhere!!}as soon as he seen me snap a pic he was of like a rocket{even a skunk sti cant out run an xr 600 on the dirt hehe}bikes have operating ranges to work within for things like oil/temp/loads etc,the point is that 10w 40 indicates what viscosity the oil can operate in for cold starts & what the maximum heat range is before the vicosity is lost & damage starts.That is determined by the manufacturer during the engineering stage & then the right oil is then recomended to fall within those guidelines later,you will find somewhere in the sevice book that there will be other recomended required for exterme heat or cold enviroments that fall outside normal operation enviroments,but unless your spannerman is japanese & is an oil engineer then doing what he says will more likely going to make him richer & leave you with a bike motor that has a shorter life span!
next time you speak to your mechanic ask him how he knows that oil is better & when he says "in my experience"
think about all the bikes he`s worked on & if its likley that he`s done a scientific test on them all to come to a conclusion?......he`s just done a deal with the supplier thats all,& next week if he gets a better deal he will tell you to use another oil.....how do i know all this? my uncle is an oil rep!

finallyridingagain
21-03-09, 11:06 PM
lol, sounds like a black art to me! (see what I did there! damn I must be tired laughing at my own jokes) seriously though, when I get a call to fix a computer at work - I always get asked - how did you fix it and what was wrong? the art is in trying to narrow it down to possible fixes. I guess what I'm saying is - I dont believe anyone knows how to fix the damn things, not even MS who wrote it...from experience you just pick it up. you may know the application but theres so many variables brought into the equation that what you learn from the official books is just a guideline


with the oil in the meanie - they checked my oil - it was clean but burnt. me, personally I got no idea, I just went by the guy that had the most experience at the time. he could of sold me the other oil, yeah he had the right manufacturer spec oil there, but he believed the thicker oil was the way to go

I'll use it till the engine dies and he says - looks like your oil is wrong....

what really scares the crap out of me are doctors. wife is a pharmacist so she works with the docs to come up with the medication. seriously - its all guess work and working with probability. a study shows this drug worked with 80% of the patients.....the other 20 died. hopefully you're in that 80!
(I'm making up the numbers ok)

thats what so good about the forums though - combining the experience from others

easyrider
21-03-09, 11:24 PM
yep ya right there about the forum,it always amazes me where some people find the info & stuff that they do,& how freely its passed on eh!

muzza
23-03-09, 05:38 PM
I too had the same problem until I changed the oil to the recomended 10w-40w. The Kawasaki shop I go to recomended 20w-50w Silkolene which is what I put in originally and the bike ran like sh*t. Checked the manual and went and bought some Silkolene 10w-40w Comp 4 and this oil has fixed the noise problem.(20-50w oil was too thin)
Dont forget to change your oil filter every second oil change they are only $16.

why change oil filter every second oil change. i normally change it every oil change.

muzza
23-03-09, 06:32 PM
Silkolene Comp 4 10w-40 available from Supercheap Auto Cannington near JB HIFI for $56 4 litre. Also SuperCheap Auto Canning Vale.

Dont go to the bike shops they are too expensive.

Let me know how you go...

i got the silkolene today. will change oil tomorrow and let you know how it go's

muzza
25-03-09, 06:28 PM
i done the oil change today. quietened it down significantley. i'll see how it go's over the next few weeks.

MorganGT
25-03-09, 09:33 PM
muzz i have never been a big fan of going against the manufacturer`s recomendation,if it says 10w-40w in the manual then stick to it,they are the ones that build the bikes & they put a $hit load of r&d into finding out what works & what doesnt,mechanics are like economists put 5 of them in a room & you will get 6 opinions!!!
Often the manual has multiple recommendations for oil depending on climate - my GPz750 is 'supposed' to use 10W-40, but the manual also suggests 20W-50 for warmer climates, and the manual's definition of 'warmer' roughly coincides with Melbourne's climate, so I run 20W-50. Convenient, because I can use the same stuff I use in my old Valiants (as long as I make sure it has no friction modifiers in it).

squizz1500
31-03-09, 03:55 PM
I changed my oil today on my 98 vulcan 1500 from 15w-50 full synthetic back to motul 10w-40 gold and what a difference it made.The noisey engine is back to normal.I only ran the full synthetic for 500Ks (Waste of money that was?).I only ran the full synthetic thinking it was best for my bike. Just goes to show that expensive may not be the best for your bike.

madcow
31-03-09, 08:28 PM
i just bought a bottle of motul 20w50 yesterday from the bike shop. $38 for 4lt. the thicker oils like this are great just as long as you always warm the bike up properly before riding (as i always do). this is for a 1500 nomad and should help quieten the factory kawa clatter.

leonard
06-04-09, 04:57 PM
I too had the same problem until I changed the oil to the recomended 10w-40w. The Kawasaki shop I go to recomended 20w-50w Silkolene which is what I put in originally and the bike ran like sh*t. Checked the manual and went and bought some Silkolene 10w-40w Comp 4 and this oil has fixed the noise problem.(20-50w oil was too thin)
Dont forget to change your oil filter every second oil change they are only $16.
Hi hope you don't mind me butting in just wondering where you get your filters for $16 z power want $30. I havn't tried the kwaka shop yet usually dear as thanks Len

Oily
06-04-09, 07:23 PM
Hi hope you don't mind me butting in just wondering where you get your filters for $16 z power want $30. I havn't tried the kwaka shop yet usually dear as thanks Len

Len thats for the VN800 models only. I get mine from Causeway Kawasaki. Victoria Park, Perth

muzza
30-04-09, 05:38 PM
do's anyone have a problem with oil leaking out of the breather hose that go's into the cases below the carby

wgash1
30-04-09, 06:36 PM
l'v been using shell sx4 15/5semi synthetic with excellent results , but changed to mobil 1 4T last oil change and first thing l noticed was improved shifting, a lot smoother but after a lazy 400k ride noticed more valve train noise (tappets) so l think l'll be going back to the shell . but l do a oil and a filter change every 3000 ks (just an old habbit)

Kawabunga
30-04-09, 07:17 PM
l'v been using shell sx4 15/5semi synthetic with excellent results , but changed to mobil 1 4T last oil change and first thing l noticed was improved shifting, a lot smoother but after a lazy 400k ride noticed more valve train noise (tappets) so l think l'll be going back to the shell . but l do a oil and a filter change every 3000 ks (just an old habbit)

Changing oil every 3000kms? I dunno what the VN800 service manual says, but for the VN900 it specifies an oil change every 12000kms. You are changing oil 4 times more often. Why?

madcow
30-04-09, 07:47 PM
cos old farts are used to frequent oil changes and doing main bearings and valve job every 5000 miles

Kawabunga
30-04-09, 08:01 PM
Well, welcome to the new age. You've possibly spent more on oil changes before an engine wears out than an actual engine. :) Valve clearances don't even get checked until 30000kms nowadays!

wgash1
30-04-09, 10:45 PM
ha ha l knew l would cop it ! but unfortunately its true. l'v had comp bikes most of my life,motorcrossers,enduro then roadracers and its common practice to change the oil after every meet (old habits ) . to me oils just cheap insurance ,considering how much a new head would be worth if you wear out your cam bearings(non replaceable on most jap bikes) say on a vulcan 1600 then multiply that by two +new cams,gaskets and the cost of labour if you don't repair it yourself,then maybe the cost of big end bearings, l'd rather just keep fresh clean oil in the motor, then l can get high mileage out of them.

muzza
17-05-09, 12:21 AM
i found out it is a pipe for the cooling system. its going to cost about 400 bucks to replace two little o rings. about 60 bucks in parts the rest is labour. no wonder i do this sort of stuff myself.

easyrider
17-05-09, 01:00 AM
cos old farts are used to frequent oil changes and doing main bearings and valve job every 5000 miles

old farts right,i can just see him in his back shed turning over his engine with a crank handle & then walking around it with a little can of oil with a squirty nozzzle on it and trying to balance a penny on the valve cover hahahalol

wgash1
17-05-09, 12:57 PM
guilty as charged:thefinger:but while l was walking around with my oil can l found that my $17000 bike that had been serviced from new by a dealer with the previous owner, had no oil in the diff, virtually no grease on the drive shaft or swing arm,headstem bearings pretty much greaseless, 18lbs front tyre pressure, 22back, sump filter that had never been off,and a loose LHS front disc caliper, all on a 9000k bike.......ALL HAIL THE OILCAN :aetsch:

madcow
17-05-09, 08:25 PM
its amazing what a routine check can find, i found a few things wrong with the nomad that i hould never had known about if i wasnt changing the oil.

easyrider
17-05-09, 08:58 PM
+1 after my rebuild i went over my bike with a fine tooth comb! i found a loose allen bolt on the front disc{lazy mechanic undone the disc to change brake pads in stead of dropping out the wheel}all the chrome bolts for the dash had been put on the engine cover,the speedo cable had been routed through the frame instead of the giant hole in the neck of the frame that a blind man could`ve seen,the coolant level was very low,the wiring for the light bars was not earthed,my blood pressure was causing blackouts & my trigger finger was getting itchy!!!

wgash1
17-05-09, 10:30 PM
i found out it is a pipe for the cooling system. its going to cost about 400 bucks to replace two little o rings. about 60 bucks in parts the rest is labour. no wonder i do this sort of stuff myself.

yep the best accessory you can buy for your bike is a workshop manual, $340.00 is better in your pocket than someone elses, :)