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Farmer
09-01-12, 07:29 PM
I have noticed that my project bike does not have the resistor near the coils. What does the resistor actually do and where can I get one ? Do I need to buy genuine?

gpz750turbo
09-01-12, 08:23 PM
When I fitted the 3ohm green dyna coils
Z1 enterprises recommended removing the resistor...so I did.

As far as what the resistor actually does....:dontknow:

If you need to have one I can help.

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc497/dmazrx1200r/Z1R/Coilwiringdiagrambeforebypass.jpg

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc497/dmazrx1200r/Z1R/Coilwiringdiagramafterbypass.jpg

GarnZ1
09-01-12, 08:38 PM
I do know they call it a ballast resistor?
Regardz

Zelephant
09-01-12, 08:49 PM
Hey Farmer , gos told me that the Mk11 sidecovers are the same as the H is that so and I WANT ONE.
CHEERS gLENN

gpz750turbo
09-01-12, 08:51 PM
I do know they call it a ballast resistor?
Regardz

Thats it.

Farmer
09-01-12, 09:18 PM
Yes it may be called a ballast resistor but do I need it ? I imagine they put it there for a reason.

Yes I may be looking for one Dave. Particularly if I can't get the H going!

Yes Glenn, Gos is correct. The H and Mk11 have the same sidecovers. But I don't have any spare. In fact I'm after a left hand Mk 11 myself.

gpz750turbo
10-01-12, 01:36 PM
What does the resistor actually do ?

The ballast resistor's function was to decrease voltage across the points.

Farmer
10-01-12, 06:42 PM
Dave
I thought that your Z1R would not have had points?

gpz750turbo
10-01-12, 06:46 PM
It doesn't...

Zelephant
11-01-12, 07:08 PM
Hey Farmer i appreciate the feedback and i know the shape is the same bit the profile may be more BUBBLED, am i right or wrong.
Thanks all. Glenn.

Farmer
11-01-12, 08:50 PM
They are the same. Only different colours and badges.
Only their mothers could tell them apart.

Gosling1
11-01-12, 09:31 PM
....I have noticed that my project bike does not have the resistor near the coils. What does the resistor actually do and where can I get one ? Do I need to buy genuine?......


Ballast resistor mate - protects ignition system components during starting and running. Stops too much current through the coils.

If the ballast resistor is carked, the symptoms are that the bike will fire while being cranked over, but will stall as soon as you take your finger off the start button. Ballast resistors are like any electrical component - they eventually degrade with age.

The ballast resistor in a MkII should only be around 1-1.5 ohms, and the OEM coils around 2.5 ohms. Total of say 4 ohms - this protects the coils from overheating and at the same time allows them to make a good spark.....

When these components degrade - invariably the resistance increases. If your ballast resistor increased its internal resistance to upwards of 3 or 4 ohms - combine this with an OEM coil that has its internal resistance out to maybe 4 or 5 ohms - and the total resistance could be 8 or 9 ohms - this is double the stock total resistance of these components, and will result in little or no spark at all. You might find that removing the ballast resistor from the circuit will give you a good spark again......but this would probably hasten any wear on other components of the electrical system.

If you run the green Dyna coils of 3.8 ohms, then you can ditch the OEM ballast resistor without any undue effects to the IC Igniter box or pick-up coils. In fact you probably should do some resistance tests on that Z1000H of yours, to see if the ballast resistor and ignition coils are all still within spec.......if these are out of spec, this may explain some of the ongoing issues with the bike ?

There is also a well-known wiring modification to provide a solid supply of +12v directly to the ignition coils - its know globally as the WiredGeorge ignition mod. Here is a picture - this mod has been done to every old Z in my collection, plus a lot of customer bikes. Its easy and provides a very effective and simple solution to old wiring harness problems.....


http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a215/Gosling1/Coilmod.jpg

:cool:

GarnZ1
12-01-12, 06:33 PM
That "ballast" resistor, I've been trying to find out, why it is there ..... Try this! (Not sure about this, but here goes) It is a resistor, physical dimensions about 70mm long and 20 mm dia, mounted near the headstock/ horn area. The purpose of the resistor is to balance the impedance of the two coils. Reputed to be 1.5 - 2.0 ohms. Does that make sense to anybody?
RegardZ.
Sorry Gos... didn't see the second page!

Smithy11
12-01-12, 07:22 PM
Good info there as usual Gos.

Would this apply to my MKII?

The only electrical work I've done thus far (and it's all been in the last week since deciding to commit to the Z rally) is checking the
charge rate (13.2v w/ lights on) and ordering new plugs, caps & leads.

I plan to give the system a thorough go-over and repair as required.

One of you clever buggers on here showed us how to mod the NGK plug caps the other day. I must find that page. I'm thinking a good job over a couple of beers. Not too many though, or they'll all end up different lengths.

Zed900
12-01-12, 07:50 PM
One of you clever buggers on here showed us how to mod the NGK plug caps the other day
Very clever that bugger:dance:

Smithy11
12-01-12, 08:27 PM
Very clever that bugger:dance:

Ahhh. Got it. Post #156. Cheers Zed

http://www.kawariders.com.au/showthread.php?17010-My-new-Z-project./page16

Gosling1
12-01-12, 09:59 PM
.....Would this apply to my MKII?

The only electrical work I've done thus far (and it's all been in the last week since deciding to commit to the Z rally) is checking the
charge rate (13.2v w/ lights on) and ordering new plugs, caps & leads.

I plan to give the system a thorough go-over and repair as required.......

absolutely applies to your MkII mate - all the big old Zeds from back around then had this resistor mounted up behind the headstock. They can get a bit dirty up there and become almost invisible - but if you are having issues with the ignition system, its definitely worth checking the resistance of this little jigger.....

The charging rate sounds OK - was that voltage reading at idle ? If you check it around 4000rpm - this is in the meat of the range where the battery is getting a full charge from the alternator via the reg/rectifier - you want to see up around 13.8v in an ideal world. A bit less than this is not a real problem - but much over 14v - especially over 15v - then the reg/rectifier is probably on the way out and will boil your battery dry.

One thing that does get overlooked on a lot of the old electrical systems - is the condition of the main earth lead at both ends. Its easy enough to check the battery end - but the other end which bolts directly to the back of the motor - is often overlooked. Its always worth undoing this bolt, giving the bolt a good clean, give the terminal a good clean - and spray a bit of wizards piss onto the bolt before you re-install it. This ensures that the main earth connection between the motor and the battery is clean and working properly.

On the early GPz900R's, they sometimes developed charging problems which were directly related to a poor earth connection at this point.

You can also repair the starter solenoid on old Zeds easily enough - this is the problem you get when the bike just 'clicks' under the seat but won't start ? Or maybe starts intermittently......just take the solenoid off the bike, bend the 2 small tabs back - and pull the 2 halves apart. There will be resistance because of the magnet inside the solenoid - but it will come apart. Just do it carefully as there is a small wire attached to the inside of the solenoid that you do not want to break.

If the solenoid has been clicking, its generally because the 2 big copper contacts which transfer 12v to the starter motor - have become coated in carbon dust. All you need to do is spray a bit of carbie cleaner on the contacts, and clean them off with a wire toothbrush. Blow the innards of the solenoid dry so there are no traces of carbie cleaner or bits of brass toothbrush :lol: - re-assemble the solenoid - and bingo, it will work again like new. I have repaired heaps of starter solenoids like this - even on late-model bikes like ZX7R's etc. The basic design of a starter solenoid has never changed, the only issue is that some solenoids can be dis-assembled, but some cannot.

:cool:

900FOUR
30-01-12, 02:06 AM
Farmer do you still need an ignition coil resistor for the Z1R? I have a NOS gen Kawa one which are NLA in factory wraper and box. Sadly it ain't cheap. PM if interested.

http://i693.photobucket.com/albums/vv300/RGH900/49a2_12.jpg

Farmer
30-01-12, 06:38 AM
900 FOUR
Thanks for the offer but I have got one (thanks gpz750turbo) Just need to put the motor back together.

Got the H running nicely now - but been too wet to test ride!

Smithy11
30-01-12, 02:01 PM
absolutely applies to your MkII mate - all the big old Zeds from back around then had this resistor mounted up behind the headstock. They can get a bit dirty up there and become almost invisible - but if you are having issues with the ignition system, its definitely worth checking the resistance of this little jigger.....

The charging rate sounds OK - was that voltage reading at idle ? If you check it around 4000rpm - this is in the meat of the range where the battery is getting a full charge from the alternator via the reg/rectifier - you want to see up around 13.8v in an ideal world. A bit less than this is not a real problem - but much over 14v - especially over 15v - then the reg/rectifier is probably on the way out and will boil your battery dry.

One thing that does get overlooked on a lot of the old electrical systems - is the condition of the main earth lead at both ends. Its easy enough to check the battery end - but the other end which bolts directly to the back of the motor - is often overlooked. Its always worth undoing this bolt, giving the bolt a good clean, give the terminal a good clean - and spray a bit of wizards piss onto the bolt before you re-install it. This ensures that the main earth connection between the motor and the battery is clean and working properly.

On the early GPz900R's, they sometimes developed charging problems which were directly related to a poor earth connection at this point.

You can also repair the starter solenoid on old Zeds easily enough - this is the problem you get when the bike just 'clicks' under the seat but won't start ? Or maybe starts intermittently......just take the solenoid off the bike, bend the 2 small tabs back - and pull the 2 halves apart. There will be resistance because of the magnet inside the solenoid - but it will come apart. Just do it carefully as there is a small wire attached to the inside of the solenoid that you do not want to break.

If the solenoid has been clicking, its generally because the 2 big copper contacts which transfer 12v to the starter motor - have become coated in carbon dust. All you need to do is spray a bit of carbie cleaner on the contacts, and clean them off with a wire toothbrush. Blow the innards of the solenoid dry so there are no traces of carbie cleaner or bits of brass toothbrush :lol: - re-assemble the solenoid - and bingo, it will work again like new. I have repaired heaps of starter solenoids like this - even on late-model bikes like ZX7R's etc. The basic design of a starter solenoid has never changed, the only issue is that some solenoids can be dis-assembled, but some cannot.

:cool:

Just spotted this reply. Thanks Gos.

It's perfect timing as I am doing this today.

Smithy

Gosling1
31-01-12, 09:43 PM
......Got the H running nicely now - but been too wet to test ride!.........

Serious ??? that is great news mate - what was the final problem that you sorted ?? I spoke to old mate in Sydney today about that resistor value if you were going to replace the temp. sensor with a resistor - but he ended up buying a brand-new temp. sensor for $100 - I am just waiting on the details he is going to email me with these......

Very happy to hear that you have got the H up and running properly now :top:

:cool: